In 1987, visionary artist and master jeweler Wallace Chan forever transformed the world of gem artistry with the invention of a groundbreaking technique now known as the “Wallace Cut.” This innovative method uses multi-angle engraving to create the illusion of multiple reflections of a single face within a gemstone — a dazzling visual effect never seen before in jewelry.
The Wallace Cut is a combination of intense craftsmanship, optical science, and artistic imagination. By using a modified dental drill and working under a microscope, Chan developed a technique that allowed him to carve three-dimensional images inside transparent gemstones — such as quartz, amethyst, and sapphire — with astonishing depth and precision.
What makes the Wallace Cut extraordinary is how light interacts with the stone. The multi-angle engraving allows light to bounce within the gem, resulting in phantom-like reflections, giving viewers the impression of five or more faces appearing from a single carving.
This fusion of East Asian spiritual themes and Western engraving techniques pushed the boundaries of traditional jewelry-making, earning Chan international acclaim and positioning him as a pioneer in modern jewelry art.
Beyond the Wallace Cut, Chan has continued to innovate, using titanium — a metal once deemed unsuitable for jewelry — and developing techniques that are now studied by artisans and gemologists around the globe.
Today, the Wallace Cut is not just a technique — it’s a legacy. It marks a turning point in the history of gem artistry, where engineering meets imagination, and where a single stone can hold infinite reflections of human creativity.
