At Semma, the newly Michelin-starred Indian restaurant in New York City, diners are invited to do something unexpected — put down their cutlery and eat with their hands. Especially when indulging in bold, soulful dishes like Kanyakumari Nandu Masala (crab masala), a spicy coastal delicacy that’s best savoured the way it’s meant to be: the Tamil way.
The restaurant, part of the Unapologetic Foods group led by Roni Mazumdar and Chintan Pandya, proudly leans into its cultural authenticity — offering not just Indian food, but Indian identity. And at the heart of it all is Chef Vijaya Kumar, who grew up in a small village in Tamil Nadu and now stands tall as a James Beard Award-winning chef bringing his roots to one of the world’s biggest culinary stages.
“Semma is a love letter to the food I grew up eating,” says Kumar. “The ingredients, the techniques, the spice blends — they all come from my village kitchen.”
At Semma, authenticity doesn’t stop at flavours. From rustic plating to traditional eating customs, every element is an invitation to experience regional Indian cuisine the way it is truly lived — without dilution or compromise.
Receiving its first Michelin star last week, Semma has redefined what Indian dining can look like abroad — bold, regional, hand-eaten, and deeply personal. Critics and diners alike have praised its commitment to Tamil cuisine, a lesser-represented region in global culinary circles, now thrust into the spotlight through crab shells, curry leaves, and finger-licking spice.
The restaurant’s meteoric rise signals a broader movement — where regional Indian food is no longer adapting to Western palates, but rather inviting them in.